Lost in the old and new

This morning we decided to take a trek up the mountain to check out the view from the wall of the medina.  It was much cooler today, so perfect for a hike.  Just around the corner from our apartment we found Riffian women doing their laundry at the concrete wash houses constructed from diverted water channels of the waterfall...very cool to see them doing their daily washing.

From here we started our assent to the medina wall...along the way we were joined by our very own Moroccan "littlest hobo" leading the way and waiting for us at points up the mountain.  It was nice to get a different perspective of the city from the other side.  

During our climb we came across houses built into the walks of the mountain and little sheds where you could hear roosters making all kinds of noises. 

At the top we took some photos of the medina and the new city...we even saw the clouds starting to part over the tops of the mountains in the distance.

From here we decided to walk over to a large hotel overlooking the city.  Along the way we came across a driving school...hilarious to see mostly women being taught by men how to drive.  

At the hotel we came across a pathway leading down to the medina.  It was a nice surprise and it took us directly inside the medina.  

Not far in we turned a corner and found a large number of people rushing around setting up for the Thursday market...seemed late to us as it was already 11:00am.  

The fresh fruit and vegetables, homemade bread right out of the oven and lots of herbs were divine looking.  We did some people watching for a bit and decided instead of lugging things around all day we'd come back and make some purchases later in the day.

From here we made our way out of the medina into the new city...ending up right in the large market.  This is where people come from all over to purchase everything from fruit and vegetables, to clothes and household goods.  We walked around for a bit...the produce did not seem as good as in the medina...and then tried to find a local patisserie we read about in the Lonely Planet guide.  

Chez Aziz was exactly what we were looking for...bee free pastries, with lots of delicious sweet treats to choose from.  Bees are all over the pastries here because of the honey and no one seems to be bothered by it...except us!! With treats in hand we headed back to the medina.  

This time we stopped to pick up some candies from a local stand...love how the guy helped us count out our candies and tried to find a bag for us to carry all our little sugar treats.  

Next we came across live chickens being sold and weighed for patrons, and then sent to the back room to be slaughtered and prepared for sale.  This was the most bizarre thing I have ever seen...but certainly fresh!  I'm sure the locals were getting a kick out of us standing there taking in this entire process while taking pictures.

We finally made it back to the medina in search of the market, but for some reason we got completely disorientated.  

We weaved our way through streets, saw more shops and then we finally came out in the market to see it empty!  Such a disappointment...I could literally taste the huge strawberries, oranges and garden carrots.  All we could do was laugh at this point as our tummies rumbled and we were getting tired from the day.  

Eventually we came out of the medina next to our apartment where we relaxed with a cup of cafe au lait and some snacks we brought along.  So nice to sit in the sun , listening to the river and waterfall below.  It was mid afternoon so we decided to do one more round of shopping...we saw everything from soaps, oils and spices in the most incredible store, house paint dye made from plants, lots of woodwork and even an artist with his easle out in the walk.

After much looking...we were getting tired of the constant haggling...we ended up buying some unique wool hats and decided to call it a day.

Tonight we plan to dine on pizza at Madala and check out what's happening in the large square...we saw a stage being set up and were told it was going to be live music and dancing. I guess we will see.

Until then...

L & L

Into the blue...

This morning was the first time since arriving in Morocco that we actually slept in...10 hours...I think we were tired!  Once we pulled ourselves out of bed we decided to simply enjoy the terrace at our apartment.  

With our homemade breakfast in hand we enjoy some down time in the sun, overlooking the city, while listening to the sounds of the waterfall in the near distance, birds chirping and roosters "cockle-doodle-do-ing". Can't get much better really...

By noon we decided to head out and take a closer look at the medina.  Our first stop was the community oven.  Here dough is brought in from local homes and for a small fee a baker bakes it in the wood fired oven...very cool to see!  

We actually walked by while they were baking bread...we also bought some butter and cinnamon cookies while we were there...yum!

Next stop...the Kasbah at the center of town.  When we first arrived in Chefchaouen it was closed, but I'm so glad we returned, as the views were beautiful and it was very peaceful inside.  

When we entered the gates we met a funky couple from Belgium and Liechtenstein who we chatted with about our travels throughout Morocco and shared details of our Riad in Fes....love chatting with fellow travellers. 

Inside the Kasbah we took in the views of the hillside, mountains and the city...gorgeous!  

We were also there during the call to prayer which felt kind of magical from inside the Kasbah. 

We only had 45 minutes to look around as things closed during the heat of the afternoon, so from here we decided to wander around and look at the shops...and of course take pictures.

The shop owners are much less aggressive here and during the afternoon many are even sleeping inside, so a great time to take a peek. 

Lots of Berber wool carpets, leather goods, wool clothing, pottery and blankets. Some of the shops were like little museums and the amount of carpets available was incredible...so much work goes into making these pieces of art.

When we were buying some bread from one of the locals we were approached by a young man asking us to come and see some Berber artisan work.  

Down a couple alleys we arrived at a Berber carpet shop...Machkour Mohamed. 

The best part of our time here...aside from looking at a number of Berber carpets...was chatting with one of the workers, Abdu Salam.  It was amazing how much he knew about Canada...it even turned out people who took the bus from Fes were there the day before and he described them perfectly...it really is a small world.  While there we were served mint tea as carpet after carpet was pulled out for us to look at...they really know about customer service here!  Although I didn't buy anything while we were there, I'm still contemplating a possible purchase.

We gradually made our way back to the main square where we decided we would have some dinner at a restaurant, the Morisco, were we had coffee earlier in the day.  

It was great people watching location from the terrace.  The service was good...the cats on the table maybe not so much...and the food was so flavourful.  We both had tagine and spent the next hour watching the goings on from below...great way to spend our evening.

We headed back to our apartment around 8:00pm and once back we spent the next hour or so sitting on the terrace by candle light enjoying some wine...so peaceful here.  

While writing this blog post the call to prayer began...how magical to sit and listen to the various mosques while seeing them lit up at night under the stars...welcome to Morocco.

Tomorrow we plan to do a bit more exploring up the hillside and also take in the Thursday market where people from the countryside come in to sell their goods.

Until then...

L & L 

Blazing a new trail

Up late last night and early this morning...so running short on steam! We headed for the CTM bus station at 7:00am, bags in tow.  It was so eerie to walk in the medina before the sun had fully risen, with none of the stalls open, except for a couple serving breakfast...the calm before the storm I guess...interesting way to leave this bustling city.

The bus ride to Chefchaouen was 4 1/2 hours North through the mountains...this time into the Rif mountains.  The drive was fairly uneventful...and I tried to sleep a bit as well...we arrived at our destination just after noon to the quaint blue city of Chefchaouen.  

This city sits on the mountain side and has its own special charm...perhaps it's the kif being grown and sold in the area though! It has Spanish influences and the houses of the medina were painted blue in the 1930's to keep mosquitos away....it is a stunning sight at every corner.  

Upon arrival at the city center, we booked our bus ticket for Friday and the bus attendant let us use his phone to call the caretaker of the apartment, Dar Domingo, we are renting for the next three nights.  Amine arrived with a smile and escorted us by taxi up the mountain, outside the new city, to just on the edge of the medina...we have a spectacular view from our roof top terrace!

Once settled in we enjoyed some time in the sun with a cold beer...thanks to the previous tenants...on the rooftop, which we had full access to as we are the only people here. Mid afternoon we decided to figure out where we were...following Amine to our apartment was a combination of twists and turns, stairs upon stairs, and door after door...this will be interesting for us as we both have issues with getting doors locked and unlocked.  

As we ventured out, at the first corner we were treated to stunning scenery and it just never stopped. Blue whitewashed walls and doors, red tiled rooves and cats everywhere you turned. Kids were playing outside, tourists were wandering around taking photos...lots of hippies here...and many shopkeepers wanting you to check out their goods.  I can't wait to check out some of the artisan works in the area.

It was pretty hot and we were getting tired and thirsty, so we headed up to the highest terrace we could find to relax and enjoy the view...of course we chose an Aladin themed restaurant as it seemed so Moroccan! The views of the Kasbah below, the Spanish Mosque above, mountains all around and the blue houses was by far the most unique scenery I've seen in a long time.

We then stopped for a bite to eat at a restaurant Amine recommended and then headed out for a little walk to the top of a hill where the Spanish mosque sits.  From here we enjoyed the sun set over the city...stunning to say the least and very cool to hear the competing mosques play the call to prayer in this mountainous city.

Once recovered from the steep hike up, we took our time walking down to our apartment, taking pictures and marvelling at our surroundings. 

Our apartment has no heat and although it was 25 degrees today, it gets cold at night.  Amine came by and lit the wood stove in our living room and after raiding the kitchen downstairs, we found hot chocolate to drink by the fire...not something I thought I would be doing in Morocco at the end of March!!

I was extremely tired, so it was an early night and hopefully another great day tomorrow checking out the many special features of this unique city.

Until then....

Lisa & Lisa