Last night was by far the coldest we've experienced yet...6 degrees, no heat and high winds coming off the snow covered mountains...at some point I thought we both might have hypothermia. Needless to say we were up and quick to get on our way to warmer climates...that was after checking out the beautiful view from our balcony.
The third day of our tour took us from the gorges to the desert and many places in between...
Day 3. Toudra Gorges - Tinjedad - Erfoud - Erg Chebbi sand dunes
Drive south toward the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, driving through Tinjdad and Erfoud - the latter is known for its fossils productions. In Merzouga, store your luggage at the hotel and hop on to a camel for whats the highlight of many travelers' experience...overnight in traditional berber luxury tent.
Leaving behind the cold wind of the gorges we headed back towards the main highway and stopped to take a look at an impressive Kasbah. Kasbahs are forts of the ruling family of the time and made from the rich red sand of the surrounding area making them blend into the cliffs almost making them impossible to spot. Most are uninhabited and an important part of Moroccan culture...very beautiful to see up close and are positioned all over the country.
In typical style we then stopped for some tea while visiting a Nomad family...this time we had Berber tea made from sage instead of mint.
This family of Nomads lived in a large tent on a very dry and rocky terrain along the mountains. After we arrived they started to prepare the donkey to get water for the day...donkey's are everywhere in Morocco and an essential sorce of transportation.
When learning about this family it was sad to hear these children could not afford the transportation to school, so they would simply go without...something we take for granted, but life altering for so many.
Throughout our travels we've driven through many check points, but have never been stopped...until today on our way from Tinejdad to Arfoud. We all sat quietly while Ali handed over all the necessary paperwork...good job we filled out our information correctly when we were first picked up in Marrakech.
After it was clear we were no threat to anyone...or at least permitted to be on the roads....we heading on our way on this beautiful day...FINALLY 24 degrees!! We stopped in Melba for some essential head gear for our camel ride...bard lhal (Aribic) or ila osmid (Berber). Inside the shop we were quickly dressed in customary dress, with vibrant coloured scarves wrapped beautifully on our heads. After taking lots of photos...sorry none that can access for the blog...we picked out what we needed to protect us from the sun and wind of the desert and were on our way.
From here we enjoyed some lunch outside and then took a quick stop to look at some of the ancient wells Nomads used to collect water...khettara...impressive system of wells to say the least.
Oh...and we couldn't forget another cup of tea thanks to Ali's superb tea pouring skills.
Next was a quick pit stop at the Rissani market where we learned about the many spices used in Moroccan cooking and tried one of my favourite teas made with herbs and mint...soon we will be water logged by all this tea and sugar!! With spices in hand...we both purchased the authentic 44 spice for Berber pizza and couscous, and I also picked up some 25 spice for fish, chicken and beef...we headed on our way, one step closer to the Sahara!
On our way through Arfoud we made a final stop at the mineral and fossil shop. Here we learned about the fossils of the region and how they extract them and make them into various products showcasing the different fossils...everything from toilets, soap dishes, tables and the fossils themselves. Arfoud is also the home to the Date Festival that takes place in July. People from all over the region come to celebrate the harvest of the date...Morocco exports over 90,000 tons a year...and they are sweet and delicious!
Next stop Erg Chibbi sand dunes...la piece de resistance!! As we turned towards the location of our camel pick up, the terrain became very hard and rough and once again we were off-roaring creating what felt like our own path/roadway at times...at one point we even caught a bit of air!
At around 4:30pm we could finally see the dunes in the not too distant future...what a beautiful sight. With a quick toilet break we arrived at Auberge du Sud camel riding with our camels patiently awaiting our arrival...how exciting!!
We quickly jumped out of the vehicle, loaded our bags on our camel and had our head scarves put on by our camel guide.
We hopped on, and with one signal from the guide we were hoisted up into the air...how exhilarating to be finally heading into the Saharah desert by camel back.
WhAt a spectacular sight...dunes all around, the sun creating different shadows and the mountains, with Algeria off in the distance...the Algerian boarder is only about 100km from Morocco from this point.
We road into the desert for about and hour where we hopped off our camels and decided to climb the dunes to see the sun set. This may seem like an easy feat, but with hiking shoes on, a camera and backpack in tow, it was not my favourite activity...at one point I just fell in the sand and thought I couldn't go any further. With the most spectacular view just inches away...and Mohamed giving me a little help the last 20 feet... I made it to the top. What a magnificent view!!!
I don't think I've ever felt so at peace as I did from high up on the top of the dunes looking over the Saharah. I think I could have stayed up there for hours...or maybe that was from my exhaustion of the trek to the top...either way it was amazing!!!
At camp we were welcomed by our host Hassan with some tea, while we waited for the 10 other people joining our group.
Our accommodations for the night was a luxury Berber tent, complete with it's own toilet, shower, electricity and decorated in the most beautiful colours.
After settling in, we joined everyone in the meal tent for the biggest meal I have ever seen. Soup, bread, vegetables, chicken, beef, rice, fench fries, risotto, eggplant, dates, and finished off with oranges with cinnamon, pastries and of course tea...an obscene amount of food for two people!!!
With full bellies and bundled up...it gets cold in the desert...we headed outside for some music around the camp fire. I loved listening to the drums and the guys singing in Berber...Lisa and I even tried our hand at a little drumming by the evenings end.
After everyone turned in for the night Lisa, Mohamed and I decided to climb the sand dunes again...this time with a different plan of attack. I was reluctant, but I rallied on using a rope to help me up...this time making it only half way where I sat under the brightness of the moon, watching the starts and listening to the silence of the night. Lisa ventured on to the top for a bit more exercise and some spectacular views of the almost full moon. Eventually we ventured back down and headed to bed...extra blankets in hand. Hard to express what a memorable evening this was and certainly one I will never forget.
Until tomorrow....
L & L
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